The World of Fine Wine recently published an insightful article on Randall Grahm’s Popelouchum project, offering a detailed update on this remarkable endeavor. Grahm’s work represents a bold attempt to craft a genuine wine of terroir—a wine in which the essence of the land takes center stage, suppressing varietal expression in favor of showcasing the unique characteristics of the site.
If you were going to make a vin de terroir, what would it look like? How would you go about doing that? Where would you begin?
This line of inquiry led to the innovative concept of cultivating a diverse set of genotypically distinct biotypes within a single vineyard. By doing so, Grahm aims to diminish the dominance of varietal identity and instead amplify the soil’s voice.
It was a gestalt problem, conceiving of the grapes as carriers of a message rather than the message itself. It’s a very ambitious, wild, and perhaps insane idea—but it’s my insane idea.
Located in San Benito County, about 45 minutes southeast of Santa Cruz, Popelouchum seems to be an ideal setting for Grahm’s ambitious vision. And this groundbreaking project is just one of many innovative pursuits underway on the site.
Grahm is also experimenting with rare and unusual grape varieties, particularly creating a drought-tolerant hybrid from Ciliegiolo and Picolit. Alongside these, he cultivates more or less familiar varieties like Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, Ruchè, Tibouren, and Cinsault, employing a variety of soil-enhancing techniques to produce what he calls “soulful” wines. As someone who’s already a fan of his Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc, I can attest to their delicious character under Grahm’s craftsmanship. The Cinsault is not far behind.
In another ambitious venture, Grahm is working on self-crossing self-pollinating varietals such as Sérine (a Syrah clone), Tibouren, and Pignolo. Grown from seedlings, the hope is that they will develop into new biotypes that amplify the expression of terroir.
And then there’s Grahm’s enduring passion: cultivating distinctive, terroir-driven Pinot Noir in California. A work in progress for that most worthy cause.
Grahm’s approach is far from conventional. A perennial innovator, he redefines the traditional distinction between vin de terroir and vin d’effort. While some view winemaking as an art that relies on the winemaker’s intervention in the winery to shape the final product, Grahm flips this notion on its head. He has firm aesthetic intentions, but he prioritizes empowering the physiology of the vines and the microbiome of the land to play a creative role in crafting the wine.
When I visited Popelouchum several years ago, the project was just beginning to take shape. When I look back on that conversation, it is evident that Grahm’s plans are coming to fruition—at least as much as any winemaking endeavor can adhere to a plan.
Ultimately, the proof lies in the bottle. And on that front, I’ve been impressed. I’ll spare you my tasting notes, but I encourage you to try these wines yourself if you’re a fan of mineral-driven, beautifully textured wines brimming with vitality. For now, only the conventional varietals are available for purchase, but they offer a tantalizing glimpse into the potential of this extraordinary project.
Exploring the Philosophy of Food and Wine 