Thanksgiving is almost upon us and that means endless posts about what wines to pair with the big dinner. The answer from my point of view is forget it. There is no wine that will pair well with the diversity of dishes that find their way onto the typical Thanksgiving table. So unless you are hosting a table of wine geeks who want separate courses each tailored for a wine of choice, you will not experience that shiver of pleasure that comes from a pairing that is more than the sum of its parts.
One option is to open a bunch of wine and let people drink what they want. Everyone is happy which should be the point of the meal anyway.
But there is one other option if we modify our concept of what a good pairing is. Wines often enhance a meal, not because they match the food, but because they function as a palate cleanser. And a palate cleanser is just what we want at the Thanksgiving table with multitudes of heavy, intensely flavored dishes to wade through.
So what wine is the most effective palate cleanser. Sparkling wine of course. The bubbles do a great job of scraping from your mouth whatever flavor molecules are still lurking.
No. A dry sparkling wine won’t harmonize with the candied yams. But it will taste great when that last fork full of yams was just one too many. Sparkling wine is a refreshing contrast to anything on the table. Refreshment not harmony is the best you can do and that is quite enough.
I have made the switch to cheap and cheerful Cava or Prosecco when friends and family come over for a casual multi-plate meal. Both get the job done nicely, and they tend to be lower in alcohol. My new splurge is a riesling-based, traditional method sparkler. I save the effort of an intentional wine paring for when I think I’ll find it pleasing.