Muscat goes by many names and is grown throughout the world wherever grapes are grown. It is highly aromatic with distinctive fruit and floral aromas and is an historic grape to boot—some people think all varieties of Vitis vinifera descended from Muscat. So why is the grape not highly regarded? I suspect it is because Muscat is usually made as a sweet, bulk wine—the infamous Moscato enjoyed largely by people not yet into more serious wines. Even when made well, it is in the style of a light summer sipper as in Moscato d’Asti–enjoyable but profoundly unserious. Only as a dessert wine does Muscat get much attention.
But Muscat does not have to be sweet; a good, dry Muscat is a unique experience and worth pursuing. This one from the Walla Walla producer Locati is interesting and compelling.
The aromatic, attractive nose belies a very intense, taught and edgy palate. Blood orange and floral aromas with background notes of under-ripe pear comingle with grapefruit and enticing ginger notes on the palate. Medium-bodied and slightly creamy in texture, the acidity bites hard but is offset by appealing bitter herbal flavors on the finish that give this wine a distinctly Italian aspect. Absolutely no hint of sugar.
A unique wine and a refreshing change-up from the same old stuff we buy out of habit. Very small production on this wine—63 cases.
For attractive but edgy from Washington State, that can only be Sleater-Kinney with “Jumpers”
Locati Cellars produces mostly Italian varietals from their estate vineyards in Walla Walla Washington. Their tasting room is in downtown Walla Walla. If you love new world expressions of Italian varieties, definitely worth a visit.
Score: 90
Price: $16
Alc: 14.33%
Exploring the Philosophy of Food and Wine 