We use a variety of criteria to evaluate wine—intensity, complexity, balance, structure—and even more esoteric qualities such as elegance and finesse. Oddly enough, originality seldom appears on the list. In fact, typicity—the degree to which a wine is typical of its variety or region, and quite the opposite of “originality”–is a virtue in wine criticism.
This is in contrast to other forms of art like painting or music where originality always counts for something.
I suspect this has to do with the role that blind tasting plays in wine evaluation. Wines that are atypical are hard to identify when tasting blind since they may not exhibit features expected of a region or variety. At any rate, I tend to go against the grain on this one—I’m always looking for original expressions of a grape or region and find new flavor profiles to be inherently exciting. Of course, the wine has to taste good as well.
So I found this Cooper Hill Pinot intriguing despite some reservations.
It has the typical nose of strawberry jam but earthy notes suggesting wet clay and eucalyptus become prominent with aeration. Red fruit, earth, and herbal notes are standard for Pinot Noir but these are given a twist in the Cooper Hill that make this wine stand out.The wine is medium weight on the palate and the cranberry-inflected fruit is not as forward as most Oregon pinots. It is a bit hollow in the mid-palate and quite tart, lacking some of the silkiness I expect from Pinot Noir, but the finish is glorious—clean, pure, and of surprising length. It left me feeling refreshed as if I had been drinking crystalline spring water.
Oregon Pinot Noir is often described as “Burgundian”. I seldom find the comparison apt because most Oregon pinots have brighter, more prominent fruit, lack the barnyard characteristics of Burgundian Pinot Noir, and the mushroom/truffle aromas are more subdued. The Cooper Hill edges closer in style to the French version although it remains distinctive. The finish itself is worth the price.
Score: 90/100
Ave. Price: $17
alcohol: 13%
Exploring the Philosophy of Food and Wine 