Cattunar Teran Barrique 2006 from Croatia

teran barrique This is a Croatian red wine from Istria, a peninsula extending into the Adriatic sea and one of the main grape growing regions in Croatia.

Croatia is not quite on the wine map yet, although they have been making wine for centuries. Only since the collapse of communism in the former Yugoslavia have the Croatians attempted to enter the quality wine market.  The two indigenous grapes are the white grape Malvasia and Teran. Teran is a red grape related to Italy’s Refosco but with a bad reputation. The introduction of modern winemaking methods mean that reputation is no longer deserved.

The Cattunar Teran Barrique is rustic but intensely aromatic, flavorful, and complex. Cherry, blueberry, clove, and cinnamon with an undercurrent of mushroom on the nose give way to smoke and charred wood like a barbecue in a glass. Sweet vanilla emerges after some decanting. The 17 months in medium French Oak give this wine a distinctive, spicy profile. If you are looking for an unusual wine to serve with your Thanksgiving ham, this would be an ideal pairing.

Medium body with some detectable sweetness on the palate, it is well balanced by mouth watering acidity and grippy, slightly angular tannins on a medium length finish that shows hints of fennel.

The overall impression is of a lean and muscular frame held in check by a spicy sensuality. A kind of joyful Stoic if you will, rugged and stouthearted but never missing an opportunity to laugh. If you are into unusual varietals put this one on your list. It is hard to find but try this shop.

12.5% alcohol. Small Production.

Good: Spicy, complex nose

Bad: Too rustic for some although others will find it refreshingly honest

Distinctive: An unusual grape with lots of flavor and zest from an emerging region.

Price: Probably around $30

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