Nebbiolo is perhaps my favorite varietal. Light and textured on the palate, with delicate aromas of red fruit, violets, tar, and licorice, a well-aged Barolo or Barbaresco from Piemonte is as good as wine gets. The downside is that it is usually a bit pricey.
So when I saw L.A. Cetto’s version for $20 I jumped at it. L.A. Cetto is one of the premier wineries in Baja’s Guadalupe Valley, and some previous vintages of their Nebbiolo were quite good. But this is a disappointment.
The cherry aromas are impressive at first but they quickly subside to be replaced by vegetal notes, mostly stewed tomatoes. The palate’s fruit is short-lived as well, giving way to stiff woody flavors that carry through a medium length finish of fine-grained tannins.
Firm and round, but dull from a lack of acidity, sums up my impression of the mouthfeel. This might please fans of funky wines who chase after odd expressions of a varietal. It is drinkable but doesn’t give much pleasure.
Good: The price and the varietal
Bad: Coarse, vegetal nose
Distinctive: From an up-and-coming region
Price: $20
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