Wine Review: Francis Coppola Alicante Bouschet 2008

Alicante Bouschet is an obscure grape although it was widely planted in the U.S during prohibition and has some acreage today in the South of France, Portugal, Spain, and Chile. Created in France in the 19thCentury, it is a cross between Grenache and Petite Bouschet and is one of the few grapes with dark-colored juice. During prohibition it was valued for its high-yield pulp and thick skin which facilitated transport. Today it is often used to give color to light wines.

It is unusual to see this bottled as a varietal in the U.S., although it is more common in Portugal. But Francis Ford Coppola had fond memories of his father making wine from this grape, and he located suitable vineyards in Lodi from which he produces this interesting, satisfying wine for those looking to drink outside the box.

This is a medium body wine with dark, jammy fruit and pleasing hints of smoked meat on the nose, wrapped in a subtle cloak of vanilla. The black cherry and coffee notes are pleasing on the palate and the mouthfeel is full and satisfying but does not feature much depth or movement, the result I suspect of a lack of acidity. A firm, mildly herbaceous, drying finish provides the structure. This varietal has a reputation for being coarse. The folks at Coppola have succeeded at sanding the rough edges while preserving a rustic character and demonstrating that we should see more of this varietal.

Good: An interesting, complex nose

Bad: Static mid-palate

Distinctive: An unusual grape worthy of more exposure

An excellent value at $16-$18

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