The story of cheap Pinot Noir is a tale of woe. Because the grape is so sensitive to climate and soil type, it grows well only in certain sub-regions of the wine world, which are not necessarily where the grapes for bulk wine are grown. So it is either too sweet and jammy or too thin and sour. But if you are willing to spend $9-$10 on a bottle you can occasionally find one that doesn’t offend. This Bogle is one of those—pleasant, pinot-like, and affordable.
The color tends toward the darker side of the pinot palette indicating there may be a little Syrah or Malbec in this. (According to law, to be called “Pinot Noir” is must contain only 75% pinot noir grapes).
Hints of tea and earth underneath the red and black fruit and a subtle layer of oak give the nose some complexity. For me, a Pinot without earth is like a body with no soul, so it passes that test. The medium bodied palate adds cranberry notes with a mouthfeel that begins with a soft, smooth texture but turns zesty with crisp acidity and surprising tannic grip that gives the wine substance.
It is a little confected but, hey, it’s a supermarket wine. There is plenty of flavor to balance the acidity, and a nicely focused finish. You can’t do better for the price. In fact, it’s better than some Burgundian swill that sells for $50. Which is not surprising. I’ve never had anything from Bogle that disappointed me.
This wine will pair well with nicely-crafted pop songs with an edge and some intensity on the finish like “Went Away” from the Indie band The Maccabees